Tomi

New York Fashion Week Spring 2015: Yuna Yang

NYFW S/S 2015: YUNA YANG

At first glance, Yang’s designs look particularly feminine, but look twice, and you’ll see that it’s so much more than that: there’s something modern, artistic, strong and even empowering in them that makes it not just another “pretty” womenswear collection but an exceptional one at that. In congruence with the theme, her spring offering has proven to be “dreamy” indeed, which was emphasized with a use of variety of sometimes contrasting materials such as taffeta, silk and denim magically weaved into pieces that are romantic and classic provided by the positive energy of the post-World War II era and the exhilarating cultural phenomena of the 40′s such as the swing dance and women’s liberation movement. While she had us sit on the edge of our seats anticipating for the next look every time a model walked out, there was a constant that could be felt throughout the show: freedom. Yang may have worked around a rather often visited theme, but what really made it a unique, fresh collection is the “freedom” she allowed herself to explore and embrace which was another element of inspiration behind the offering.

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Seoul Fashion Week Spring 2015: Ordinary People

SFW S/S 2015: Ordinary People

This spring, “Ordinary People” go on a trip in polka dots, daisy dukes, coolest capris and sleeveless chambray button-downs. Don’t you just wish the guys you randomly come across on a trip to Europe looked like this? Now that would be the most romantic thing ever. In all seriousness though, even after so many seasons and encounters, I must say “no” to those short-shorts after all, as the mind refuses to accept them as appropriate  men’s attire. Sorry, guys. But don’t fret yet, the good news is that the designer Hyeong Cheol Chang may have come up with the cleanest looking capris, and to make things even better, he also offers what looks best with them such as the oversized sleeveless button-downs and a loosely fitted motorcycle jacket made with knitted fabric that looks Chanel. It looks especially awesome when paired with the crisp white round-neck t-shirt that looks perfectly opaque making it most appropriate for the occasion. This look, indeed, shall be what men should be wearing this spring. Capris never looked so hot- do it, and do it now.

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Perfection.

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This, guys. Yes, this is what I’m talking about.

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Khakis are always a nice idea.

SFW S/S 2015: Ordinary People SFW S/S 2015: Ordinary People

But do refrain from tight pants if you have thick thighs- No hate though, soccer is an attractive sport. Just be aware of your body and what looks best on it, fair enough?

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Photos by Justin Shin, Fashion Photographer Seoul Korea

Seoul Fashion Week Spring 2015: SURREAL BUT NICE

SFW S/S 2015: SURREAL BUT NICE

If there is a ranking solely dedicated to brand names, Surreal but Nice would be on top of the list as the most confusing, illogical yet still kind-of-cool brand. “What do mean ‘but nice?’ Since when was surrealism not nice?” a slew of artists who were nothing but revolutionary including Salvador Dali, Marcel Duchamp and Joan Miro would demand an answer. But sarcasm aside, the duo are known to put up a good show with pieces that are usually more appropriate for editorial shoots than as everyday wear. They are not couture but utility seems not to be at the core of their design philosophy- not that it matters anymore especially with all the attention given to street style. The point seems to be that we should wear what we want, simply because we are free to do so.

Continued from their last collection, fringes appeared again but in a shorter version, and while tuxedo-inspired blazers and vests were eye-catching, it wasn’t until what looked like some mystical maze pattern paired with vertical stripes started appearing that things got really interesting. They can make anything with the maze pattern and it would sell. Tattoos can sometimes add fun to a show, but only when done in moderation. In this case, it looked overdone especially with the cartoonisty print which added nothing but distraction. The oversized blazer and a dress/skirt over pants would have been better if any of the three pieces was fitted or at least a size smaller. The bagginess of everything made the models look like they were wearing things randomly picked from a thrift store, and we are referring to at least one globally recognized top model here (aka Kwak Ji-young). The show seemed to be shifting gears towards the end with video game or just some random doodles that looked like they were borrowed from kids’ clothing. Please correct me if I’m wrong but the red and black lettering looked like a “Youtube” logo.

It’s good to be different and unique, but one should always know where to draw the line. But then again, how will we ever achieve things at an extraordinary level if we never took a risk? These are just samples after all, which means the freedom offers designers an opportunity to experiment and explore. On that note, definitely a great show with lots to see; I hope the buyers noticed their potential and bought lots of the “maze” things because man, it’s the coolest.

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Photo by Justin Shin, fashion photographer Seoul Korea

Seoul Fashion Week Spring 2015: ROLIAT

SFW S/S 2015: ROLIAT

Please tell me I’m not the only one who was confused and a bit uncomfortable to find out that the theme of Roliat’s spring collection was “Boudoir”? Because you know, the first thing that came to mind was an image of a woman sitting on a fancy bed in her prettiest piece of lingerie, thanks to my first exposure to the word being Boudoir Photography, not the French word itself which means a lady’s bedroom… hence the pajama-themed collection which makes everyday attire look boring. If loungewear looked this good, why bother changing every morning? But then again, when this is what you change into, it may be a different story… While the show effectively conveyed the message of comfort and fantasy of a bedroom as intended, when it comes to practicality, the idea is there albeit conflicting. Perhaps a piece from each look paired with something more outdoorsy is a nice option if you don’t intend on mimicking Beyonce  (#iwokeuplikethis).

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Seoul Fashion Week Spring 2015: PUSH BUTTON

SFW S/S 2015: PUSH BUTTON

So apparently I’m either prophetic or secretly possess some kind of superpower that allows me to see people’s past without having studied it. A close source tells me that the designer of the uberpopular brand, Push Button, used to be a stylist. And not only that, he was a model too. Although I only got the first half right, I must say I was pretty shocked to find out. And on that note, I cautiously assume he never quite received full training in fashion design (not that it matters when your stuff is good) as I’m unable to locate such info anywhere on the cyberspace. But really, who cares. If anything, aren’t we all tired of seeing institutionalized people making same stuff over and over? For one, I’ve recently become a huge fan of the self-trained French designer, Jacquemus, well, because he’s the most creative, artistic individual I’ve come across recently (albeit only in cyberspace, unfortunately- I’m sure he’s a nice guy in person too). But if I had to be completely honest, the reason why I began considering Park more of a stylist than a fashion designer is I always felt like his collection was missing that certain “something” even after being almost always particularly entertaining and memorable. It turns out the looks are “made” to look good with exceptional accessorizing and styling. The question was, ‘If he were to show each look with no accessories at all, or minimal styling work involved, would it still be interesting?’ The answer, at least this time around, was no, because as you can see, what really completes the look is not the dress nor the layered bra, but the matching headband, jeweled cat eye sunglasses and big, big hoop earrings. But what is there to complain when the collection looks awesome and maybe even covetable?

With the iconic painter Frieda Kahlo as an inspiration, Park pushes the button yet again through his own world of wit and glamour where vintage and future meet- which sometimes turns out to be a bit awkward yet strangely in a good way. That must be a talent.

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Photo by Justin Shin, Fashion Photographer Seoul Korea

Seoul Fashion Week Spring 2015: CRES. E. DIM.

SFW S/S 2015: CRES. E DIM.

One great thing about having experienced a not-so-memorable past collection is that there is something to look forward to in the next season. And this season, Cres. E. Dim., comes on strong with a collection filled with engaging pieces that not only prove that he’s a qualified designer but that he can embrace and reinterprete “norm core” in his own, unique way using elements found in Korean school uniforms from the 70′s. There were jerseys, mesh sweaters, trench-inspired sport coats, culottes and even bucket hats to add to the list. While it is uncertain whether he meant the band or the artist when he mentioned Yves Klein Blue as part of inspiration, this sporty yet relaxed approach to casual wear sure seems to be working for the brand.

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Photo by Justin Shin, Fashion Photographer Seoul Korea

Seoul Fashion Week Spring 2015: J KOO

SFW S/S 2015: J KOO

You know it’s a good show when you start anticipating the next look. Quite simply, what sets a good collection apart from those that are average is one that which presents something new in every single look yet mindfully follows the theme by placing main elements of the collection in each look. It should be clear what the designer is trying to convey, and it should be illustrated in the pieces that are made with the highest quality and finish. We have all done some type of presentation in school that required nothing but the best in us because the presentation, in a way, represented who we were- it was a chance to show them what we were capable of. A fashion show isn’t much different- only that an event in this scale should consist of results that offer a lot more at a much higher level.

SFW S/S 2015: J KOO

J KOO is a brand that knows what’s up. And I mean it- are they not only the most well-trained and prepared duo, but they are one of the few designer brands that shows during Seoul Fashion Week that have mastered the basics of fashion design. What that means is that they have the ability to cover from A to Z with their very own “kick” added, all the while keeping them “cool” and practical enough to lure fashion fans from all over the world. The pieces are not only one of a kind, but with wit and quality that you’d expect from a luxury designer brand- but more important, they are trendsetting while also being timeless and sometimes even free from circumstantial factors. These are clothes you want to go out in, party in, meet cute boys and girls in, pray in, and to sleep in. I know, because I’ve experienced them firsthand.

SFW S/S 2015: J KOO

It isn’t difficult to conclude that tennis is rather a fashionable sport, and it really got me curious when the designer told me that they were inspired by tennis wear from the 1920′s to 1930′s which looked something like this and this. While it’s not the first time high fashion has played tennis, compared to Jean Paul Gaultier’s luxurious take, J KOO presents younger, casual variations with mini fringes, pleats and their signature “undone” edges. Having a menswear background for the duo gives them a competitive advantage by allowing them to experiment with womenswear while creating everything with top notch tailoring. It may seem common sense, but at the end of the day, what truly matters is whether fashion designers know how to design. If you are wondering why I’m saying such a thing, try seeing 200 shows a season. You can kind of start giving brands grades, trust me.

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Photo by Justin Shin, fashion photographer Seoul, Korea

New York Fashion Week Spring 2015: Hervé Léger

NYFW S/S 2015: Herve Ledger

The question is, just how far we can go with the bandage dresses.. Kudos to the design team at Max Azria for their relentless attempts and success at creating seemingly endless collections of body-con dresses season after season, which this time around received a bit of “power” with inspiration coming all the way from Japan. It’s one thing to be a strong woman, but to look this sexy being one is not the easiest feat. If you were guessing “Geisha” the moment Japan was mentioned, you were right, albeit partially. Hervé Léger’s spring collection is a reinterpretation of Japan’s female warriors called onna-begeisha; what she would have been if she were to come home after a long day at a battlefield- or, on her “off days” having a brunch somewhere hip, let’s say Downtown LA. This alone should explain the Kimono reference that’s rather obvious, though this woman isn’t only a fighter but is confident about her body and sensuality- so much so that she rocks skin-tight clothes that are considered the toughest to pull off- that which pretty much reveal every curve and not-so-curvy parts of the body. What seems to matter the most however, is embracing and enjoying being a woman no matter what, one who is strong not because of her social position or wealth but simply because of who she is. On that note, this is a collection that is both empowering and creative, and that’s enough to leave us anticipating the next collection for sure.

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Seoul Fashion Week Spring 2015: KIOK

SFW S/S 2015: KIOK

It’s infinitely great when the designer knows what she’s good at, and even better when she doesn’t hesitate to focus on the exact stuff that made her who she is. Denim, shredded denim in particular, is undoubtedly Kiok’s specialty, and the minute top model Soyoung Kang opened the show with a denim jacket that’s two things awesomely beautiful: distressed and white, it finally felt safe to breathe a sigh of relief. There were no surprises, but it was a concise display of Kiok’s history, and where it will be heading from here. One thing is clear: it’s all about denim, and that is enough to keep the fans happy.

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Photo by Justin Shin, fashion photographer Seoul, Korea